MIDDAY UPDATE:
Confirmed chest to head high sets with lots of racy lines and enough juice to get you down them. Occasionally going a foot overhead the swell's definitely peaking. Get it while it's good people.
Light wind, light drizzle. Overcast. Why would you go out in this weather you ask? Swells up! Thats why. Solid 14-15 sec SW has been building for the last 36 or so hours. Likely peaking this morning and waining from here. NOT A BEGINNERS DAY. Unless you really know what you're doing keep the longboard at home until tomorrow evening. Can't ride a short board? It's a great day for a bodysurf. Right now it's throwing solid chest, occasionally head high waves. Not sure how the tide turn around will affect it exactly but I'll be in the water doing an intimate analysis to find out.
BUOY
TIDES
WEATHER
Photos Captured @ 7:25
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